A centrifugal clutch benefits from being able to "float" on the crankshaft slightly. If you have the clutch fixed to the crank and the sprocket fixed to the axle, there is no room for error in flex or mis-alignment
DO NOT ever use a 3/4" bore washer "on" the shaft or set screws to permanently position your clutch. (The only exception is a two piece clutch.) The standard clutch is no longer drilled and tapped for set screws because they are not needed. You never fix both sprockets in a locked position. Only the axle sprocket needs to be in a fixed position. A clutch must be able to float on the crankshaft so it can self align.
If the crankshaft or PTO of your engine is not long enough to pass through the clutch entirely, you can use a flat washer or two as a shim to add length to the crank. You would need one or two washers that are 5/16" ID and 11/16 OD. The desired amount of float or movement would be .070" - .100".
You never want to force a clutch onto the crankshaft. Take the time to make sure there are no burrs and make sure the clutch slides freely.
Light filing of the key, steel wool on the shaft and so on.
Put your clutch on the crankshaft (inboard or outboard), then place the washers on the 5/16 bolt. Torque the retaining bolt and make sure the clutch still slides freely. Position the clutch halfway between the crankshaft step and your 1 1/8" flat washer.
To get the benefit of clutch float you need to make sure it is centered on the crankshaft at this point. Align your rear sprocket with the clutch sprocket while centered. The clutch isn't going to move back and forth unless need be.
The flat washer that you hold the clutch on with should be 1 1/8" in diameter and the length of the 5/16" bolt should be 3/4" long. Tighten the 5/16 bolt snugly. You do not need to over tighten as it will make removal more difficult.
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